Almost everyone has an image of Goa, a lot of which has been packaged and presented to us by popular media, films and entertainment outlets as a land of beer and beaches. As it often happens, the reality seems to conform to this virtual image, especially in the tourist populated parts of North Goa (like Calangute). The Southern part of the state on the other hand is a very different affair. For someone who wants to stay in Goa for more than a booze fuelled weekend and actually explore the region for all that it offers, South Goa is the perfect playground. In this article, we start from just south of the airport, which lies exactly in the middle of the state, and work our way further down south, recounting some of the beautiful beaches that we find along the way.
Bogmalo
Bogmalo is the closest beach from the Goa airport – about 5 km away, which makes it the perfect place to have your first beer and dip your feet in the cool sea-water minutes after you land. Situated in a tiny cove downhill from National Highway 17, Bogmalo is a small, pristine beach enclosed by the Goan signature purple rocks on both sides, that still remains one of Goa’s hidden treasures. Populated mostly by locals of the Bogmalo village and students from BITS Pilani Goa Campus , which is only a few minutes away, this tiny beach offers clean, clear water and a view of the Bat Island which houses a Naval base. Bogmalo is absolutely stunning in spring, with a small stream flowing into the sea from the nearby stream. Perhaps the best part about Bogmalo is the many affordable homestays that line up along the edge of the beach, most notably Leon’s Guesthouse and Rodrigues Guesthouse, which offer the sight and the sound of the sea from your room. John’s Seagull and Joet’s are two must-try shacks on the beach that offer great seafood with some fresh catch, and the prawn curry rice at the Green Shack is a commendable effort.
Velsao
This is the first tiny beach along the long coastline that stretches all the way to Colva beach near Margao. Mostly untouched by tourists, the most notable thing about Velsao is how quiet it is. We last visited Goa in April and as we remembered it, there is only one shack on the beach called Anoushka, and that is half the reason why this beach is included on the list. Anoushka offers some of the best seafood and Goan cuisine you will have in Goa. Try the roasted ox tongue – a rare delicacy which is made to perfection over here.
Utorda
As we move further down south from Velsao, we encounter the sister beaches of Utorda and Majorda. The white sandy beaches of Utorda are a treat to the senses. It is a perfect beach for long walks along the sunset after spending the day in the water. At night, you can spot some phosphorescence in the shimmering waters if you are lucky. Another reason to visit Utorda is the great food options that you get here, especially Balton’s and Zeebop by the Sea. Both these places offer finger licking sea food accompanied with chilled out reggae vibes, with occasional live music.
Majorda
Ten minutes further south you hit the more popular Majorda beach. Majorda has a long coastline with serene white sand, and the sea can get a bit rough here during high tide. As a result, Majorda offers its fare of seaside adventure sports like parasailing and waterskiing. The best part about Majorda is that it is walking distance from some of the most famous restaurants in Goa, like the legendary Martin’s Corner – a favorite of Sachin Tendulkar among other celebrities. The Martin’s special steak and the ox tongue at Martin’s corner is especially recommended. Majorda is also close to luxurious resorts like the Alila Diwa and the Park Hyatt Resort and Spa.
Colva
Located just at the outskirts of the southern town of Margao, Colva is one of the more happening beaches in South Goa. As a result, it is generally more populated than the other beaches on the list and has more activities on offer. These include water sports like parasailing and waterskiing among others. For music aficionados, the Baywatch Beach Resort is highly recommended. This is where the Goa International Jazz Festival happens in November-December every year, along with quality live music acts performing weekly all year round.
Benaulim
The quaint shoreline of the fishing village of Benaulim has always been a great hideaway for travellers looking for a quiet, relaxing holiday. It is known for its balmy weather and golden sands that stretch into oblivion. Benaulim has also become a water sport attraction, with activities like jet skiing, surfing and parasailing. Do not miss the little Vaddi Beach, the smaller sister of Benaulim only a few minutes away on foot, which has a quieter and more tranquil atmosphere.
Palolem
One of the most popular beaches way down south in Goa, Palolem is situated 30 km south from Margao. While it is slightly more difficult to fit in a tight itinerary involving other places up north, at least a two day trip focused on Palolem and nearby places is a must for anyone who wants to explore this part of Goa. Once you enter Palolem, you get lost in its stupendous beauty with its palm-fringed beaches, turquoise clear waters and long stretches of unspoilt white sand. Palolem beach itself has a very different vibe from any other place is Goa – a more chilled out, hippie scene with a laidback atmosphere, which is great at any time of the year. About one mile long, this crescent shaped beach is surrounded by purple rocks jutting out into the sea. It is also one of the safest beaches to go for a swim, due to its shallow depth and clean waters. Palolem is also a quick boat ride away from the Butterfly beach, aptly named after its curious shape. To boot, there are so many small beach strips in the neighbourhood divided by rocky hills that demand an excursion, each dotted with quaint homestays and small beach shacks. In case you were wondering why it looks so familiar, this is where the rogue agent Jason Bourne aka Matt Damon chose to hide out in the 2004 film The Bourne Supremacy. Palolem is a world in itself that is waiting for you to get lost within it.
Agonda
One of the southernmost fishing villages in Goa, the beautiful Agonda beach is around 9 km north of Palolem, and houses two of the most pristine beaches in Goa – Agonda and Cola. It takes about an hour to reach Agonda from the town of Margao, but once you get there it is completely worth the detour. Mostly populated by the local fishermen, Agonda and Cola are some of the most untouched beaches in Goa. Agonda is also one of the only four beaches designated as a turtle nestling zone for the Olive Ridley Sea Turtles, which visit during late September/early October. The adjoining Cola beach is made up of a clear water lagoon, with homestays and Goan food options open for service.
Careful research is a hallmark of a smart traveller, and this is extremely true when it comes to visiting Goa, whether you are looking for tranquil getaways or tourist spots. While the northern part of Goa has its own hidden attractions, south is where you want to be if you want to do something out of ordinary in this beautiful seaside state.